Finishing Leather - Using Neatsfoot Oil

When selecting a method for putting the finishing touches or “finish” on your leather project it is not a whole lot different than selecting the color you want to have your house painted. The selection you make is a matter of what you like or do not like at the time. For the longest time my favorite way of finishing leather project, that I made for myself had to be with the pattern sealed and with a combination of oxblood and mahogany antique finishes mixed together. I used that combination for too many years and I believe that I still have some oxblood and the combination of the two still around. I have eliminated the oxblood and just use the mahogany antique finish now.

I still like to use antique finish on some projects because I think that it really sets them off in a way that dyeing or staining the background does not. I do like a dyed background on some projects but I have never been partial to it because of the time factor involved in getting it done. I may have mentioned a few posts ago that I used to use a lacquer finish on all of my projects, including those that had Neatsfoot oil on them. I got away from using the lacquer on the oiled projects but it really defeats the purpose of using the oil, which is rejuvenation of the leather.

Since the last post, I tooled some samples and used different methods of finishing them. There is one method that I found on a site that suggested using a product that I already have on hand. I do not plan to use it on any of my projects unless they have been completed for many years. Some photos of the different samples will follow on this post and maybe one more afterwards so that I do not bore you with too many details.

I used the same carving pattern on all the following ones that I had used on the previous sample. The first photo is actually two tooled patterns, each done on different weights and leather tanned by different companies. The lighter colored leather is the same as that which I used on the first example. It is 2-3 ounce leather that I for lining special projects. If I were to make a somewhat educated guess, I would say that the lighter weight leather is tanned by a different process as well. It does not seem to have the oils in it that the heavier leather does.

The photos that below are to show the difference between the initial look of a pattern tooled on 9-10 ounce leather and that tooled on the 2-3 ounce lining leather. At first look, you will notice that the leather on the right is much lighter than that on the left. Again, my guess is that the lighter colored leather is tanned by a different process. When I worked for the saddle shop in Pendleton, Oregon a 9-10 ounce leather was purchased for me to use for making belts. It was one of the worst leathers that I had ever had to carve. My swivel knife blade would chatter on the leather as I attempted to carve the pattern.

Pattern samples before applying Neatsfoot Oil

Looking at the samples/examples above you can easily see the difference in the colors of the raw leather after it had been tooled. I like the more mellow look of the sample on the left. The decorative cuts and the impressions left by the stamps are more distinct in the heavier weight leather than the lighter one on the right. The decorative cuts just above the flower on the right are just some of my playing around; testing my skills at making the decorative cuts.

The photo below shows both of the previous samples of tooling after they have been covered with a liberal coat of Neatsfoot Oil. You can still see the difference in the colors between the different types of leathers. Even after being covered with the oil, the one on the right is still much lighter in color. In addition, at first glance it might look as if I have destroyed the sample on the left because of the darkness of the leather. Most of this type of leather will appear very dark even after just one coat of Neatsfoot Oil because the grain absorbs the oil readily.

Pattern samples immediately after applying Neatsfoot Oil

You will also notice that I labeled these samples at the bottom so that I would remember what they are.­­ That way I know what they are now and I will be able to read the label at the bottom and know what they are in the future. If you look at the background that is stamped on each of the samples, you will notice that on the left is much darker than that on the right. Looking at the edges of the flowers, you can see that the leather is a little darker there than it is in other areas of the patterns. This is because the carved edges of a pattern will absorb the oil quite readily, and, there is a notch in the leather to hold more oil, allowing it more time for absorption.

To show how quickly the oil can be absorbed into the leather I snapped the photo below, showing the flesh side of the lightweight leather. I took this photo within five minutes of applying the oil with a piece of sheepskin. The point of this photo is to demonstrate the absorption rate of the oil into this leather. Notice how the background areas around the flower are already darkened with the oil. The outline of the flower showing on the backside of the leather is normal because the leather is moistened and it will be “stamped down” just because of process of tooling. It is easy to tell from the discoloration on the flesh side of this piece of leather almost exactly where each carved line and each stamp has been struck.

Flesh side of lightweight sample - showing oil penetration

The photo below shows both samples at a little over twelve hours after the application of the Neatsfoot Oil to the top surfaces. Notice how they have evened out in color after the oil has had time to penetrate. Although the leather in the previous photo looks as if it has achieved the “maximum” level of saturation, it would take much more to reach that point, especially with the heavier leather. Also, compare the color of lightweight leather with the one shown previously. See how little the color has changed compared to the original.

I took a photo of the flesh side of the lightweight leather after it had been sitting overnight to show how much the Neatsfoot Oil had penetrated into it. It is obvious just where the flower has been carved and stamped on the front side of the leather. The brownish areas that are seen are where the swivel knife was used to carve the petals of the flower and to make the decorative cuts in the petals. At this point, it looks as though you could just have the flesh side of the leather exposed rather than the grain side. That would be a lot of work to have done and not show it off.

Flesh side of lightweight leather 12 hours after application of oil

You might wonder what the point is with this line of gab. I am trying to make the point that the oil will soak through the thinner leather quickly and it could present a problem down the line. I do not like to use Neatsfoot Oil on lightweight leather for two reasons. First, as you can see the oil has come through the leather and it will easily get on anything that touches it. If you oiled the back of a wallet, the money and other papers inside will soak up the oil and become permanently stained. It may not be too bad for the money, but what about business cards or photos?

The second reason is that the oil will possibly break down the glue that you might use to attach a liner directly to the flesh side of the leather. Remember, any lightweight leather project that has areas that are carved and stamped will more readily absorb the oil. I have experienced failure of rubber cement when I mixed Neatsfoot oil with antique finish. It might be necessary to use Barge Cement instead. It is the kind of glue used to glue the leather soles on your shoes when you have them redone. How do I know this? Does experience sound like a good teacher?

Again, if you have any comments or questions be sure to post them here on the blog or e-mail them to me.

Have fun!