Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Shaping and Molding Leather - Part Three



I think that the last couple of posts covered sizing the form sufficiently enough that you should be able to wing it well enough to make your own. Remember, the form that you use for molding and shaping your leather does not have to be perfect. Leather is a little forgiving and you can adjust the shape and size at almost any time in the process. I would advise that any changes be made early though. As we move along in the process, I will try to point out any challenges that might come up during the process.

Now with the leather softened by the rubbing alcohol-water mixture, it is time to begin the rough shaping and molding. I begin by pressing the leather down on the two sides of the form with my fingers. In this stage, it is a very good idea to have very clean hands because the wet leather will absorb almost anything on your hands. The photo below shows this first stage of molding the leather.

Rough Formed Leather
Rough shaping of leather around the form
It is easy to see the outline of the form under the wet leather after pressing it down. I try to hold the leather down with the tips of my fingers without making impressions with my fingernails. I keep my fingernails clipped short, especially when I know that I will be molding leather. Minor fingernail impressions can be rubbed out with a folding tool, but deep impressions may be there for the life of the item you are making.

During the rough molding process, I do not try to get the sharp/tight corners that you will see at the end of this process. The main idea here is to get the rough shape of the form to show through the leather. I guess that this is in a way a little like kneading bread, you don not throw it on the kneading surface and pat it once or twice, at minimum you will probably be into it for five minutes. If everything turns out the way you hope it will, you might have five minutes in just the basic molding processing.

Something that I will point here as well is that the leather that is wet enough when molding it is not necessary to cut out corners to make the fit good. It is similar to wrapping a package in that it is necessary to fold the wrapping paper at the corners on the package ends to make it look good. If you like the looks of sown corners you can also use this method to shape the corners so you can stitch them but that will have to come in a different post. Basically, it will take a little elbow grease to get your leather molded to the form, but it will eliminate the steps required for cutting out the corners and sewing them, which could be tedious from the word “go.”

One of the tools that I use a lot for molding and shaping leather is my elk antler-folding tool. A friend gave it to me. He also did leatherwork and he used it for shaping the leather for some of his projects. I like it because it was a gift, it has a good surface to smooth out the surface of the leather a little more, and the tip is just blunt enough to help me shape the corners a whole bunch better. If you would like to make your own folding tool from a piece of bone or an antler, you can sometimes find pieces of antler in a pet store or if you happen to be at the right place in the woods you might find a set of antlers that were dropped by an elk at its annual antler shed. Otherwise, you might want to purchase a folder/creaser from a leather craft store.

Elk Antler Folding Tool
Piece of elk antler used for folding and creasing leather
The photo below is not the best representation of using the antler to crease the corner folds of the leather but it does give a basic idea of how it is done. Again, it is necessary to hold the leather in as close to the same position on the form as with the rough mold at the start. Press down and hold the leather with the fingertips on one hand and move the edge the folding tool down towards the board on which the form is mounted and against the side of the form. Do not exert excessive pressure on the leather with the antler as it may cause creases in the leather that will be difficult to hide or remove. As in the photo below, I try to avoid using the very tip of the antler because point may cause unwanted creases at the point of contact and might be difficult to eliminate.

Creasing with Elk Antler
Making the lower crease  using a piece of elk antler
It is always a good idea after using the folding tool to allow the leather to dry for a few minutes to an hour. I like to do this so that the leather has a bit of time to “relax after being stressed.” (Please forgive my attempt at humor.) This will also let you take your focus off the task at hand for a brief period so that you can come back to look at with what some might consider “fresh eyes.” By that, I mean that by stepping away from what you are currently doing you might be able to see something that you need to alter a little before you make the final commit. I have found that this works very well for me for almost anything, especially when it comes to programming. It might sound a little funny, but I have had a little experience with database design and programming. I like to work both ends of the spectrum.

After letting the leather relax for a time, I will come back and use my fingers and my folding tool again in the same areas as I had on the first go around. It might not be necessary but it is how I like to complete this part of the process. I have found that it allows me to get a little better fold or crease on the leather after the some of the moisture has had time to evaporate. It also holds the fold better on the second time around.

Even after I have remolded the leather the process is not complete. I then like to clamp the formed leather onto the mounting board. I do not remove the form but leave it in place. If you look closely at the photo below, you will see that there is a bit of a shine on the surface of the board that clamped onto the mounting board. This shine is the plastic wrap that I put on the board to keep it from adhering to the leather. It is very important to make sure that if you wrap your boards with plastic wrap that you make sure there no wrinkles in the wrap. The wrinkles can cause unwanted lines in your leather. Some of the lines can be rubbed out but maybe not completely.

Wet Leather with First Clamp
Leather with first clamp applied
When I look at the photo above, I notice a few things that should be pointed out. The object on the left side of the photo is an inexpensive ratchet-clamp. This type of clamp works perfectly well for clamping the plastic wrapped board in place. The leather is wetter than I like to have it at this point in the process but I wanted to get it done quickly for the photos. I may have mentioned it before, but the leather has shifted up a little on the left side. This happened when I put the board in place for clamping. The last things that are visible in the upper right hand corner is some black spots on the board. These black spots are actually carpet tack holes. I used to use carpet tacks to anchor the leather around the form. It was extremely tedious. I would not advise using this method unless you do not have access to a couple of clamps. Carpet tacks are blued and the coating will come off in the leather. In addition, it you are bad a pounding in the tacks you might hit the leather.

The photo below shows how our project looks with the second ratchet-clamp in place. It is a good idea to leave the clamps in place for a few hours. As wet as this leather was when I finished clamping boards down it needed extra time for drying sufficiently. I left is for a few days because I was out of town. I should point out that it is important to have the fold at the bottom edge almost exactly where you want it to be. It will be more difficult to reshape this area of the carrier pocket after it dries. Re-wetting the leather here and reworking it may affect either side of the pocket and cause the leather to stretch where you did not want it. It might be better to accept it as it is and proceed on with the process.

Wet Leather with both Clamps
Both clamps applied to the project
In the next post I will cover the assembly of the multi-tool carrier and have a few more ideas on how you can make your project shine a little. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments. I will be glad to hear what you have to say and if you have any questions I will be glad to help you if I can.

Have fun!

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