As you can see from the
previous posts, I have an order in which I like to get my “stuff” done. I am
not superstitious and I do not think that I will disturb the time continuum if
I do not keep the order the same every time. Actually, I probably change the
process each time I work on a project just to keep the tedium at a minimum and
to give myself a little more of a challenge. By the way, did I mention that my
initials are “BS?” That may be the case with my initials, but I will be open
and honest about the things that I try to accomplish on this blog. As I have
told many people before, “There are not any secrets to what I do.”
Somewhere in the order of
things I like to strop my swivel knife before I begin carving. I find that if
it is not done before I start carving that I get a little upset at having to do
it almost immediately after starting. It is just a lot easier to be ready the
first time that I start a carving project. The photo below shows a block of
white jeweler’s rouge, a piece of leather that is 1½ inches wide and close to
15 inches long, and the swivel knife that I use for 99 percent of my carving.
Strop your swivel knife blade when you feel it starting to drag. Stropping your
blade fairly often will help with reducing the pain and muscle fatigue you
might feel when beginning to do this type of work.
I tried to explain the
stropping system in an earlier post, but if you will bear with me I will try to
explain it a little better. If you look at a swivel knife blade you will see
that it has two distinct edges. Looking at one end of the blade you will see
that it is “V” shaped. To properly strop the blade make sure that the blade is
held flat on the leather with the jeweler’s rouge rubbed on it. Slowly drag it
across about six inches of the leather and do this around four times per side.
It will take time for the blade to become well polished, but you will find that
it will pay dividends as you proceed on with other carving projects.
It really does not matter if
you strop your swivel knife before or after the next step. Once you have placed
the masking tape on the back of your light-weight leather, you will need to
spray it to get it moist so that you can work with it. Again, if you are using light-weight
leather I would advise that you use a spray bottle to moisten the leather while
using a mist type of spray. Try to moisten the leather evenly and then cover it
with a plastic bag or something that will keep the moisture from evaporating. You
should be able to begin transferring the pattern to the leather within 15-20
minutes after spraying it. It can show a little dampness but it should not look
as if it is wet!
When the leather is ready to
work, line up the tracing/carving pattern on the leather and weight it down or
tape it to your working surface on either the two upper or two lower corners.
The idea is to minimize the movement of the tracing pattern as you use the
ballpoint stylus to trace over the pattern to transfer it to the leather. In
the photo below you can see part of the weight bag holding the pattern on the
leather, at least to a certain degree.
Tracing pattern on leather with weight bag on the left |
If you notice a little shine
on the surface of the tracing/carving pattern that is the packaging tape that I
applied to it. You can also see that the tracing paper is a little translucent
and that the leather is somewhat visible under it. The moisture in the leather
might add to the translucency of the paper but that does not matter, the main
thing is that it works! I used to use lined notebook paper or just about any
paper that I had lying around to trace my patterns. After the first use of
tracing paper I was sold. Be sure that you use enough pressure to transfer the
lines to the leather. Do not “scare” the leather, “assault” it.
After you have transferred
the pattern to the leather you will want to make sure that all of the carving
lines are on the leather before you begin carving. Without moving the leather
or the pattern, carefully lift the tracing pattern from the side that is not
weighted or taped down. Lift it only enough to make sure that all of the lines
are there. I find that I will more often than not I have missed transferring a
line or two. After double checking for missed lines remove the tracing pattern
from the leather to begin carving the pattern.
Pattern to be carved on leather - #1 to be discussed in next post. |
When ready to begin, I would
look at the flower as the point to start carving. When possible make your cuts
going away from the other lines so that you do not get overlapping cuts on your
design. It may not be possible to always carve away from other lines, but do be
careful to stop at least a little short of those lines. Make sure that you do
not have anything in the way while working on your project. I like to turn my
carving projects while cutting the lines on the leather. You will find that
carving things like flowers is a lot easier if you turn the project while
carving. That way you will not have to stand on your head to carve the lines
that are not so easy to finish in one position.
Another thing, do not carve
lines so that you have two starting points that meet somewhere in the middle.
It will be fairly obvious to you if you do it because the points at which the
lines join may not match well. One reason for the mismatching lines is that you
will invariably hold the swivel knife at a slight angle when you carve. I do
this and I can see the effect when I try to cheat. If you cannot completely
carve a line on your pattern in one move, carefully lift your swivel knife off
the leather and rotate the project to a more comfortable position. After
rotating the leather, place the blade back in the cut where you stopped and
finish carving the line.
For more information about
carving leather and how to hold the swivel knife look back at the “More about
Carving Leather” post. If you have questions about the process be sure to let
me know. If I can I will be glad to answer them.
Have fun!
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